A proper Italian trattoria on Rue Beaumont in the Ville-Haute, open since 1992 and still run with the same spirit by the Veletta family. The name means "the hedgehog" in Italian. A family story as old as the restaurant itself. Classic trattoria cooking done without compromise, a wine cellar put together with real care, and the kind of warm, no-fuss atmosphere that makes you want to linger. One of the city's Italian institutions. Closed Monday and Sunday. Book ahead.